There have been some stunners, including Kirra, in Australia Jeffreys Bay, in South Africa and Ocean Beach, in the shadow of San Francisco’s Golden Gate Bridge. Raised in California and Hawaii, he started testing his limits on a longboard as a young teen and has never stopped, following his obsession across the globe in search of the world’s most stupendous breaks. But if you’re watchful, athletic, and calm under extraordinary pressure, you can learn how to ride waves twice as tall as you.įinnegan’s new memoir, Barbarian Days, gleams with precise, often lyrical recollections of the most memorable waves he’s encountered. And when they’re huge, they just might flood the bike path that runs along Lake Shore Drive.įor William Finnegan, a staff writer for the New Yorker and a lifelong surfer, “each wave is a column of orbiting energy” that rises to the surface and tumbles forward as it approaches land. Most of us think of waves in fairly simple terms. Best of Chicago 2022: Sports & Recreation.Best of Chicago 2022: Music & Nightlife.Get your Best of Chicago tickets! Ticket prices go up May 15 > Close
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |